Invaluable lessons from Bangkok
Ten invaluable lessons I learnt from my time in Bangkok by Mohammed HasanAfter travelling through Vietnam with a friend, I decided to fly to Thailand after discovering a one-way flight from Vietnam for only £20. This time I’d be alone. No hostel booked or any plan for what I wanted to see or do.Bangkok, Thailand has it all: incredible street food, stunning temples, beautiful sunsets, vibrant markets, Jazz bars, friendly people, cheap massages, air-conditioned malls, and so much more.
Lesson 1: Connect with the locals and other travellers
Whether you’re travelling solo or with friends it's easy to jump from monument to monument or activity to activity without connecting with others. We lose out on learning more about the country we are visiting when we don’t engage with locals or experienced travellers.I was scared. I usually make an effort to learn the language but given the last minute nature of this trip – I could barely pronounce “Hello” and “Thank You” on the two-hour flight from Vietnam; as for reading Thai, that’s another story.I decided not being able to speak Thai was not an excuse for not connecting with locals.My first meal was on a small dusty side street. Looking away from the menu, perplexed by the different characters; a bright, beautiful smile caught my attention.She looked at me expectantly and pointed at the different menu options. I never felt rushed or judged; she patiently waited as I the scanned the area to see what other people were eating.I watched two adolescent boys dressed in military uniforms sharing a meal of chicken and rice; looking back at the woman while pointing at the boys’ plates I said “same”. With a sigh of relief and knowing smile, she said, "same same".I could see her small food cart was the primary source of income to her children running in the tiny shack she lived in – a mixture of corrugated iron and concrete.She didn’t overcharge me, but I wanted to tip her because unlike a less tasty version of the same meal in an overpriced air-conditioned touristy resort – each customer makes a real difference.Words facilitate communication, but they don't guarantee connection. Sometimes all you need is a look or a smile; sharing the same physical space with stranger whether it’s eating street food or admiring the same sunset.
Lesson 2: See “adversity” as an adventure
Hindsight is always 20/20 and rarely do we openly admit that our funny travel mishaps were moments of intense panic and fear. I'm usually the chirpy (seemingly in-denial) guy in the group that lifts morale when disaster strikes. However, when I was travelling alone I felt more frustrated than usual; there were many moments where I didn't know whether to laugh or cry.Cab drivers giving you a tour of the city blaming it on the road works as the meter continues to run is not unfamiliar territory. But after stubbornly walking dragging my bag through the sweltering heat to avoid rush hour traffic, I was in no mood to be messed around. Three cab drivers later and borrowing a strangers phone to call the hostel for directions got me to my bed.My "worst" day also ended up being my most enjoyable. While travelling on a crowded train to see the ancient ruins of Ayutthaya, I didn’t think I’d be: almost mauled by three guard dogs or dangerously weaving between cars on my bicycle on the main intersection of a motorway.Here are the sequences of events:
I borrowed a bike (from ‘IL Treno’ hostel) to cycle to an ancient temple.
I sought directions from a motorcyclist who promised to show me the way. After dangerously weaving between cars and lorries on a motorway I eventually lost sight of him.
Once I arrived, the temple was closed.
I decided to enter the temple grounds - it was pitch black, and I only had my iPhone torch to guide me.
After hearing a few muffled grows - I turned back - the growls turned into aggressive barking all of a sudden three guard dogs were chasing me.
I could no longer keep cycling over the hedges; I dismounted my bike and dashed it at one of the dogs while running for my life into the main road.
It was pitch black, my phone was dead, and I had my bike.
I found a tiny restaurant to refuel and charge my phone. I used the google translate to explain what had happened; the stocky man smiled and gestured for me to at the back of his motorbike; he drove a top speed through the compound a beeped at the guard dogs.
I got back on my bike as he rode behind me - like a "Presidential Escort car.
I jumped at the back of a tuk-tuk with my strapped in behind me; one wrong turn and I would be sent my flying along with my bike.
Jackie, the hostel owner, convinced me to stay. He offered me a bunk bed for 260 Bhat (£4), breakfast and a free Thai boxing class.
Jackie and I shared so much in common: we both studied law at an undergraduate and postgraduate level, travelled to similar countries and aspire to the same things.
I went from fearing for my life to making new friends. The next morning, I saw the beautiful ancient temple, and it not worth the drama the night before.
If I never travelled to Ayutayah – I never would’ve met Jackie.
Lesson 3: Embrace the unusual
Every country has its quirks, at least from a visitor’s perspective. I initially visited Lumphini Park for to tick off one of the things to see for the day. I didn’t expect to see so many runners nor did I expect to participate in an outdoor workout session with geriatrics first bumping to loud techno music.I watched many senior citizens doing pull-ups before taking breaks to listen to what appeared to be the national anthem blasting from a set of speakers.Scouring Chinatown to find Durian fruit led me to spend part of the night with an elderly group of French ladies reminiscing about their childhood.
Lesson 4: Learn to align your interests
Almost every travel guide tells you to BEWARE OF or AVOID tuk-tuk drivers, but I quickly realised I could accommodate their interests in return for extremely transport. One driver explained to me that tuk-tuk drivers take passengers on a detour to a “random store” to eat or buy clothes at because these same stores help them refuel for free. I agreed with one driver that if he would be my driver for the day – I would go to a number of these stores on the way and pretend to be interested in whatever they were selling. I get a cheap chauffeur for the day, and he gets to refuel for free.
Lesson 5: Buy a Sim card for mobile data – it makes all the difference
Many of the side streets don’t have posts illustrating their names and when they do it is in Thai, which is pretty tough to read if you’ve never studied the language.
Lesson 6: See the city from different vantage points
Seeing the city from rooftops allows you to gain different perspectives on the city. My view from the top of Golden Mountain temple was phenomenal – I could see everything from palatial properties to shacks. I also used different modes of transport particularly boats that took me from one side of the Chao Phraya river; the boat taxi only cost 10p.
Lesson 7: Forget ‘following the crowd’
This advice may be counterintuitive especially if you’re solo travelling. I made friends with a group from China that flew to Thailand to see a Guns & Roses concert – we had great discussions, but the tone changed when I made it clear that I had no intention to go out and get “smashed”. Instead of going to the noisy and crowded bars on Koh San road – I left the group and went to JJ market; it was such a great experience. The next day I decided to see Koh San road to see if it was worth the hype. I hated it – crap music, and somehow I ended up in a dingy bar where the boss tried to lock me in for not buying anything after I got bored of the “live music”.Later that evening I went to a local jazz club called “Brown sugar” a small side street, 1 kilometre away from my hostel. I was enamoured with these two beautiful girls and all of their covers as well as traditional Thai songs. I would’ve never found this place without using Google maps (Lesson #5).https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWLdWc1Pcdw
Lesson 8: Share your experience with loved ones
Share your experience with friends and family. I often face-timed people back in London to share my cool view of the boat taxi, panoramic views of the city and time lapses of cool sunsets. I also recorded Facebook live streams of my adventures.
Lesson 9: With great power comes great responsibility
In a country with a very favourable exchange rate – everything seems like a bargain. Some tourists use this to pay for sexual favours and exploit people forced to work in the red light districts or shady massage parlours. Others use this as an opportunity to help local street vendors and give the local economy a boost.I know I’d rather be helping the mother of three selling noodles than receive a “happy ending” from a girl that’s encouraged and in some cases coerced to perform sexual favours in return for petty cash.
Lesson 10: Sit still and just observe
Put your mobile away and camera down and soak it all in. You’ll learn the most when you stay in one place to look, smell, listen and taste all that is around you.