My Vietnamese Adventure: From Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi

My Vietnamese Adventure: From Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi (2017) by Mohammed Hasan

Ho Chi Minh City:

After 16 hours of flying I landed in Ho Chi Minh City airport. I collected my bags and changed inside a disabled toilet to acclimatise to the 35-degree heat.

I could feel the intensity of the sun as I stepped outside a well air-conditioned airport terminal into what felt like a trading floor during the 2008 recession. There was a mixture of panic and confusion amongst tourists trying to locate the “right” cab, impatient travellers forcing their heavy suitcase trolleys through the sea of people, and families looking for their relatives that had just arrived. The vibrant colours, dusty roads, and palm trees reminded me of my countless trips to the UAE. I couldn’t contain my excitement. I was desperate for something new. Something exciting.

I was in awe at the sheer number of motorcycles on the road; each motorcycle tells you a story: I saw, sacs of bananas, barrels of water, planks of wood, and entire families being carried on these motorcycles.

Our taxi driver dropped me outside an alleyway between Burger King and Starbucks, which led to small side road crammed with countless hostels and hotels. Each building had a reception with a marble floor, and brightly coloured neon lights outside the front entrance.

Opposite the alleyway was a busy road, which ran parallel to a small park. People of all ages were playing sports: high school kids played football using their shoes as goal posts while a group of elderly men and women were kicking a spring loaded shuttlecock back-and-forth. I was in awe of their athleticism and accuracy. This game is commonly known as đá cầu and is played throughout Vietnam (a.k.a Jianzi in China).

After waiting for 10 minutes to cross the road I realised that traffic lights were a luxury and the only way to get to the other side was to slowly walk into oncoming traffic and allow motorcyclists to ride around me. This was not the case for cars or large buses. I continued to walk through the sweltering heat while crossing zebra crossings that were at least 100 meters long. I eventually reached Ben Thanh Market.

Ben Thanh Market:

Ben Thanh Market situated under a large clock tower facing the busiest roundabout I’ve ever seen, reminded me of the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul.

I sidestepped hundreds of vendors eager to sell spices, tailored suits, lamps, and much more. “Xin Chao! Come Come Come – I sell you – very good price,” said one beautiful woman selling Adidas shirts. Suddenly I felt my arms being pulled in multiple directions, and before I knew it I was surrounded by multiple vendors; each of them insisting that they would give me the best deal.

Stall owners often sat close to the floor, and flanked the narrow spaces between stalls like soldiers preparing for battle. Their laughter was infectious yet their sweet smiles were deceptive, and their iron like grip revealed an aggression that shocked me.

I saw a lady selling a bamboo hat caught my eye. After 15 minutes of haggling, and multiple attempts at pretending I was no longer interested I bought the hat for 150,000 VND - that’s only £5! I wore that hat for the entirety of the trip. I felt bad for haggling so much since I had a favourable exchange rate and unlike this lady I didn’t need to sell hats for a living.

I eventually reached the back of the market where I are my first and best Vietnamese meal; it was Pho Tom (Pho Noodles and shrimp) with freshly squeezed Pineapple and Passion fruit juice for only 40,000 VND – that’s £1.50! My mind was blown.

Buy Viet Street (Backpackers district):

Buy Viet Street was packed with karaoke bars, empty clubs blaring chart fillers, and cheap restaurants. I saw middle-aged men drinking cheap Vietnamese beer in sports bars, Hostel Goers in neon coloured shirts roaming the streets on bar crawls, Karaoke singers, fire breathers and tourists falling for the massage girls.

Air 360 Bar:

The air360 bar had a panoramic view of the city alongside slick bartenders wearing bow ties, and an amazing DJ playing all the old school classics. The drinks were at least 1,000,000 VND (£40) but I managed to put enough coins and notes together to buy two canned energy drinks. I sipped my glass for at least 40 minutes while admiring the skyline. Each lift had a small pineapple lit to give a fresh aroma, and the roof had a pool alongside a dance floor at the very top for private parties. All it took was 16 hours on a plane to transport us from a cold and grey looking city called London to the highest point in Ho Chi Minh City.

Tour of Cucu Chi Tunnels:

At 7:30 AM I had our scrambled eggs, watermelon, and Vietnamese coffee to start off the day. I got on a dishevelled looking grey bus with two a Canadian couple their 70s, a couple from Chile and two Asian Australians. Our tour guide, “Ben”, was an excitable, charismatic and cheeky Vietnamese guy. When asked whether we had any dietary requirements - the Australians replied, "We can eat anything as long as it's clean". "Good... you'll enjoy our dog meat!" Ben sarcastically replied.

All 15 of us boarded a small speedboat, which weaved in between giant lily pads, boats carrying cement, and copious amounts of seaweed. Everyone played it cool by not fastening their lifejackets until the boat violently rocked tilting to the right at a 120-degree angle; everyone fastened their jackets and developed a white-knuckle grip by holding onto the railings.

We eventually arrived at another picturesque garden before being escorted through a series of large underground tunnels that funnelled countless groups of tourists into a jungle with bear traps, huts, and narrow tunnels built by the Viet Kong.

Our guide told us harrowing stories about the war: entire forests were bombed and burnt with napalm to make room for tanks; sniffer dogs found huts to ventilate underground tunnels – toxic gas was pumped into these huts; millions of gallons of Agent Orange was sprayed across villages. He also recounted examples how resourceful of villagers: they used b52 bombs which failed to explode to make gun power; ventilation huts were laced with spices to confuse sniffer dogs; they developed special techniques to cook food to avoid smoke being released so they couldn’t be detected.

We were given the chance to crawl through a 100-meter underground tunnels that had been widened for tourists. It took 15 minutes of switching between crawling on my stomach to edging forward on the balls of my feet. I felt proud for completing the distance, and I was even more excited to see Larry and his wife complete the same challenge – remember they’re in their 70s.

Reunification Palace:

A large concrete block surrounded by a huge green lawn and a series of smaller gardens with beautiful trees represents Vietnamese Independence. The first two floors contain the delegation rooms where diplomatic discussion took place; the rooms were furnished expensive oil paintings, ancient vases and, large conference tables. The upper floors have control and operation rooms where Vietnamese generals discussed tactics. There is also a large green military helicopter on the roof of concrete palace.

The concrete staircases and empty conference rooms sterilise any character or history left in building – it felt more like a multi-storey car park than a palace symbolising independence.

War Remnants Museum:

The main highlight was a photographic exhibition illustrating the cruel nature of war and the intergenerational suffering of thousands of Vietnamese families.

Images of young children and new-borns with deformities caused by Agent Orange, a herbicide designed to destroy the Vietnamese forests which led to genetic mutations in Vietnamese families across four generations. Approximately 4.8 million people were exposed to Agent Orange, and hundreds of thousands suffered from diseases caused by Agent Orange including Hodgkin’s disease, prostate cancer, and leukaemia. Maps showing the areas that had been simultaneously bombed and sprayed could not capture the loss of life, but the gallery captured how families in 2017 continue to be crippled by the war. There were inspiring stories of hope: paraplegic victims still managed to laugh and joke with their relatives.

It wasn’t until 2004 that the victims of Agent Orange successfully brought a lawsuit against the U.S. chemical companies responsible for manufacturing Agent Orange.

Late night Pho:

At any time of the day we could get good food for a cheap price – in big cities like London, tasty nutritious meals and low prices feel mutually exclusive. At 3.30am I left my hotel and sat outside a small stall on a side road off the backpackers district.

A young boy wearing a Man City T-shirt spoke in Queens English “What would you like Sir?” He had a disarming smile and gentle demeanour, which contrasted with the two elderly women ordering him to serve all the customers. He kept me company until a large group of Vietnamese women parked their scooters and sat around me on the metal tables. They looked a group of models for an H&M photo shoot – simply dressed yet still looked Chic. One girl waved and kept smiling as she edged closer to my side of the table, but I my inability to hold a conversation in Vietnamese kept us from going beyond staring at each other.

An hour later I walked down the Buy Viet Street. It was eerily quiet. I heard pop music blaring from the speakers of empty sports bars, an audio recording from a lady delivering bread on a motorbike. I could smell the fumes of burnt pork as I walked passed stray dogs, and young girls waiting for clients around the street corner.

I walked past USA hotel, a grimy bar filled with fresh-faced Vietnamese girls. “Come over here!” shouted a woman a tight black dress. Her name was Kitty, approximately 5 foot 4 with teeth as yellow as the sun, and a figure that many would kill for. “Join me and my friends for a drink,” she whispered while pointing to a row of beautiful Vietnamese girls. I insisted that I was fine and was happy to chat outside but nothing more – she moved closer, and whispered, “how much would pay?” “You can have me or any of these other girls for a weekend or even a week”. After making it clear I had no intention of having sex let alone paying for it we made small talk. She began to open up about studying English college but she never pursued a university degree since she had to raise money to support her family. Working on the streets provided a reliable income.

Ho Chi Minh is a beautiful city packed with motorbikes fresh cuisine, cute babies, and much more, but like any other metropolitan city it is rife with inequality; outside the grand hotels and gated neighbourhoods are elderly women that work until 4am. The mothers cooking the noodles I enjoy eating at 3am are most likely related to the young girls outside seedy bars and street corners offering “massages”.

Exploring District 5:

District five also known as the “China Town” of Ho Chi Minh City has noticeably fewer tourists. Everything is much cheaper, and there are countless garages selling everything from spices to spare car parts.

Thien Hau Temple:

We spent at least an hour surveying Thien Hau Temple (Mother Temple) – we lit several incense sticks and watched Buddhists diligently kneeling to pray to a large statue of Buddha.

I saw a set of traffic lights. I decided we should take a crazy photo to celebrate: sitting across a busy road multiple times until we got the perfect shot.

Tien Hau Temple, Vietnam. *Photo credit:* *Mo Hasan*

This photo highlights just how colourful and diverse the motorbikes in Vietnam are; it’s almost like they’re part of a subculture except that motorcycles are a “way of life”. Motorcycles are not a fashion statement or way of displaying your membership to an exclusive club – they are common means of transport i.e. getting from A to B.

Trip to the Mekong Delta:

The Mekong Delta is filled with boats transporting raw materials, selling rice, spices, coconuts and other goods. We visited three self-sustaining islands: Unicorn island, Turtle island, and Phoenix island. Each island is named after the four mythical creatures: Unicorns represent purity; Dragons represent power; Turtles represent long life, and the Phoenix symbolises longevity.

Video Credit: Mo Hasan

Each island had a unique feature: unicorn island produced natural honey and pollen seeds; turtle island is surrounded by coconuts, which it uses to make coconut milk, flavoured sweets, and roofs made from coconut leaves. Phoenix Island has a huge alligator pit and kept us entertained with obstacle courses.

Video Credit: Mo Hasan

Nha Trang

Almost every online travel forum described Nha Trang as waste of time. Locals love it and tourists hate. During a seven-hour coach ride I looked out the window admiring the Vietnamese countryside: undisturbed forests, rice fields, and small shacks selling staple foods.

On the surface Nha Trang seems to be a seaside resort packed with cheap clubs, and crowds of Russians in their late 40s. However, the beautiful beach, historic temples, and nature hikes on the outskirts of the city make it a beautiful place to visit. One of my most memorable experiences was hiking in Ba Ho, which is only an hour drive away from Nha Trang.

Beach:

I’ll always remember playing a game of baseball with a few locals. We used a wooden plank as a bat and a coconut as a ball. Although we had no common language to communicate, we never stopped laughing and joking. It was at this point that I realised my interactions with locals could replace all of the spectacular views and historical sites I’ve seen.

After crossing the main bridge I saw a group of break-dancers. I didn’t think I would see group Vietnamese kids in the middle of the beach blasting old school Hip-hop music while doing windmills, backflips, and baby-freeze. Why wouldn’t I? Breakdancing is universal – it is not strictly limited to the western countries. In fact some of the best breakdance crews can be found in South East Asia.

Sunrise at the beach: Elderly locals had been exercising on the beach since 4am. — Sunrise at the beach: Elderly locals had been exercising on the beach since 4am. *Photo Credit: Mo Hasan*

Po Nagar temple:

The temple offers multiple views of the city. The most underrated feature of this attraction is the garden. I jumped across huge boulders overlooking the fishermen’s village and smaller houses.

Ba Ho:

This was the most challenging hike I’ve ever completed. For three hours I climbed on loose rocks, walked across cracked pipes, and rappelled down large boulders holding onto vines and roots. I was quickly reminded that being young and physically does not mean you’re invincible. While talking to a group of Swedish guys (one of them was an Olympic diver) about whether it was deep enough to dive – I lost my footing. I slipped off the cliff face. Luckily I missed a series of jagged rocks and brushed past a large smooth boulder. I landed on my ass and prayed I wouldn’t break my tailbone before swimming on my back. I decided to conquer my fear and dive off the cliff face three times.

I also decided to get closer to a waterfall – I jumped from one rock to another. One way back I realised how deep and strong the current of water was. I picked a large boulder and dropped it over the gap I had clear – it was carried away like a piece of paper. I had jump back – this time I knew that if I slipped I would be finished.

Hanoi:

Hanoi is a concrete jungle: skyscrapers are barely visible past the smog while the old town is overrun with scooters, food stalls, and cheap counterfeit goods. The cracked pavements were crowded with people of all ages: young men in oil stained shirts welded and hammered spare parts of scooters while elderly ladies were selling pots and pans while cooking large quantities of meat. I stepped over a dead rat – it looked like it chocked to death from the city’s fumes.

Hanoi’s residents are competing for food, space, employment, and even air. The vibrant night market (open Friday – Sunday) is a stark contrast to the dangerous levels of pollution that overshadow the city throughout the week. During the weekend motorcycles are prevented from entering certain parts of the city – the barriers serve as sort of emission-free zone. There is a euphoric atmosphere as high school and university students gather round to sing popular songs – imagine buskers being accompanied by hundreds of strangers before forming a huge circle similar to that of a group of friends sharing stories and singing songs by a campfire.

It was only after I had returned from brief escape to Hoi An that I saw another side to the city. There was sense camaraderie amongst the locals while kids raced in their electric cars around the lake and hoards of tourists sampled traditional foods in the night market.

Night market:

My friend (Nabeel) and I sold karaoke microphones at Hanoi's night market. Another stall owner selling perfume finally told the police that kept patrolling area that we were causing a nuisance. She resented the fact that we were taking her customers and not buying the products ourselves.

[Insert image] Playing "mandarin square capturing" (o an quan - Vietnamese name):

Ha Long Bay:

Our touristy cruise gave us the opportunity to go kayaking, squid fishing, cooking classes, and exploring caves.

Photo Credit: Mo Hasan

Our Fifteen-hour train journey (Hanoi to Hoi An):

Travelling by train is truly an experience. The carriages were identical rectangular boxes coated with blue and red paint fitted with unpadded plastic seats as well as speakers that constantly played adverts and public service announcements. Guards frequently patrolled carriages to check tickets, and the smell of chicken noodle soup occupied each carriage. The voices of those selling soft drinks and sandwiches were overpowered by the sound of crying babies, and the rattling bathroom door.

After being kicked out of the “soft sleeper” carriages, which offered a series of thinly padded bunk beds, a guard escorted me to his cramped sleeping quarters. Fifteen minutes later a younger train guard burst into the room and demanded 1,000,000 VND in order to stay. Another passenger explained that my ticket for 525,000 VND wouldn’t get me a soft bed since the price you pay for a bed is proportional to the distance you’re travelling. I left and curled up into a tiny ball on the unpadded plastic seats.

Ten hours later I woke up to intense brightness of the sun and the smell of chicken noodle soup. While looking through my photos of the trip – a cute baby began to stare at my phone. We made Snapchat videos using the cat filter – his younger siblings joined in and even father recorded our interaction on his phone.

Photo Credit: Mo Hasan

Hoi An:

Coconut Island:

Ninh Binh:

Ninh Binh (Bai din Ching An province) is known as the second Ha Long Bay or the Ha Long Bay on land.

Insert Images of: Visited the belltower the 36 tonne bell; temples; Mountain biking; Kayaking through caves

Final Thoughts:

I asked myself WHY do I want to travel? For me, it was connection: the opportunity to observe and communicate with people from different cultures and backgrounds.

I loved: diving of the cliffs of Ba Ho, canoeing through caves in Ninh Binh, eating amazing street food, selling microphones in Hanoi’s night market, shooting AK-47s and star-gazing in Ha Long Bay. However, the moments I will cherish most are my interactions with the locals and other travellers.

Vietnam is often remembered for its guerrilla warfare during a protracted bloody war with the U.S. under President Nixon. I will remember Vietnam for its beautiful terrain, delicious cuisine, friendly locals, and colourful mopeds.